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Nishiki Market and Ishin-no-Michi

Sometimes you find great places just by walking around and just go where your feet takes you. This day we started out with an awesome breakfast where we finally got hold of some bread. Back home we usually eat a lot of bread and in Japan it’s a scarce commodity so we were thrilled when we saw the plates. You might wonder “well then, what do the Japanese eat for breakfast?” and the answer is, pretty much what they have for lunch and dinner. Another lovely thing about meals in Japan is how they are presented. I mean, just look at that tray with everything neatly placed! The attention to details is just remarkable and they truly follow the rule “less is more” (see the one dried fruit in the yoghurt).

japanese_breakfastAfter the breakfast we browsed the shops that was lining the narrow streets up towards the Kiyomizu-dera temple. Where there are temples, there are “touristy shops” but in the middle of it all, we found several nice shops selling tea, earthenware, sweets etc. Inside a small alley, we even found a shop selling Studio Ghibli stuff with an enormous Totoro outside!

Totoro! If only you could fit in my bag!

Totoro! If only you could fit in my bag!

Loved the cosy and narrow streets :)

Loved the cosy and narrow streets :)

After leaving the crowded streets we walked up Ishin-no-Michi st, a steep road leading to what looked like a temple. For a small entry fee of a couple of hundred yen, we entered the Ishin-no-Michi grounds and started climbing the stairs. It was a tough climb because of the heat but I’m glad we made it because the view from the bottom of the graveyard was amazing. The graveyard is the resting place for over a thousand people, both royalists and samurai that died around 1867. On the steep mountain slope and under the lush vegetation, it was a beautiful and peaceful resting place.

The view over Kyoto.

The view over Kyoto.

statue

graveyard

graveyard1

This is what we found right outside the toilet, a gigantic mantis! I've never seen one in real life so I was very excited

This is what we found right outside the toilet, a gigantic mantis! I’ve never seen one in real life so I was very excited.

In the afternoon we also paid a visit to the Nishiki food market in the more central part of Kyoto. There where “no photo” signs pretty much all over the street so I couldn’t take many pictures :( There were all kinds of food there. Fish, vegetable, tofu, tea, mochi sweets and also weird things I’ve never ever seen before (and don’t expect to in the future either). The weirdest thing must’ve been the tiny octopus with a cooked quail egg inside it’s head. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take any pictures of it but luckily, someone else did!

Here’s me trying a steamed sweet potato patty on a stick! It was rather tasty :)

Yummy :)

Hot but yummy :)

We also bought some green tea (sencha) and at the end of the street we found this super cool machine that was making matcha tea! Basically, you mash tea leaves completely with a stone and get a fine grain powder that you mix with hot water and drink. It’s said to be very healthy since you drink the entire leaves. It’s also very popular in ice cream and sweets. The slightly bitter matcha goes perfect together with the sugar in sweets.

If you ever find yourself in Kyoto and are even remotely interested in food, I recommend checking out the market. It really was an experience.

matcha


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ただいま! (We’re home!)

The honeymoon was awesome but it feels good to be back home in Sweden again! I’m sure gonna miss a couple of things I got used to in Japan. First thing is how quiet, polite and nice the people are. If you’re lost, they will help you. Some will even walk you to your destination!

Second is the trains. After enjoying the trains in Japan for 3 weeks, I can’t say that I look forward to riding my chaotic bus to work. In Japan, you’re not allowed to speak on your mobile phone while riding the subway trains, or any trains for that matter. You should also don’t talk too must or too loud to your friends. I wish the teenagers riding ‘my’ bus to school would abide to these rules as well… And for some unknown reason, young children don’t seem to cry/scream as much in Japan as they do on the trams and buses here in Sweden. I don’t get it. How do they make the kids stay quiet?

Even though we’re home, I’m gonna continue writing about our stay in Japan because it was just too awesome not to share with you guys :)


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Kobo market in Kyoto

When we checked in at Ninya House, our landlord Mariko-san highly recommended a visit to the Kobo market held at the Toji Temple once a month on the 21st. She also recommended to be there quite early if we wanted to get our hands on the good stuff. We took her advice and made sure to be there at around 8:15 in the morning. At first we thought that what you see in the picture was the entire market. That was nowhere near the truth. In reality, this was more like 5% of the market. There where lots of different food, for example takoyaki, okonomiyaki, noodles etc. You could also buy antiques, pottery, beautiful bonsai trees and wonderful vintage kimonos.

kobo-market

I, of course, had to buy myself a kimono! There were sooo many beautiful garments to choose from but I found a lovely red/purple-ish one for ¥2000, a haori (kimono jacket) for ¥2000, an obi (sash) for ¥1000, an obijime (string to tie around the obi) for ¥2000 and an obiage (a scarf used to tie up the obi) for ¥1000. The quality of everything I bought was very good. I never saw anything for that price with that quality in any of the “proper” stores. To give you a little perspective, I can tell you about the nagajuban (undergarment for kimono) I bought a day later. It cost me ¥15.000. Sure, the quality was good but still the price felt a bit bonkers in comparisson. Since I’m a complete newb when it comes to dressing up in kimono, two lovely ladies at the market tied me up in the obi :) They even gave me two koshihimo (silk ropes to tie the kimono) as a gift!

See the obiage sticking out. Apparently I should tuck it in more since I'm now a married woman :)

See the obiage sticking out. Apparently I should tuck it in more since I’m now a married woman :)

When walking out from the market, we stumbled across a both that was selling fabrics for ¥800/m!!! With that price, I couldn’t just walk away without buying anything so I got a nice woven fabric. I’ll post some pictures of it when I get home, right now it’s lying somewhere in my bag :)

Caaakee! Yum, yum!

Caaakee! Yum, yum!

When we got home, Mariko-san came by with two yummy cakes and some sweet plum wine as a wedding gift. (Thank you Mariko-san!) Excitedly, I told her about my awesome bargain and she got just as excited as I was. She even helped me dress up :)

kimono2

kimono1


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Nara

Previously, I’ve read about all the deers roaming around Nara so we went there to check it out. The JR train took around 45min from Kyoto station and since we got there early, we managed to get a seat.

The first stop on our tour was the Kofukuji Temple but half way there we sort of got lost and asked a couple of old ladies for directions. Without pretty much no english and only my limited japanese, it went surprisingly well. We weren’t particularly impressed with the temple. Seamed like any old temple to me but the Pagoda was quite cool. Outside, we met a school class that enjoyed meeting us gaijin. I think some of the boys wanted to take a picture with us but they seemed afraid to ask.

From the temple we headed further into the park and there were deers everywhere! Martin bought some “deer food” and fed them. To be honest, I was a little bit afraid of them since they were quite determined to get the food.

Deer feeding time!

Feeding the deers while modelling the shirt I made him for his birthday.

This is the closest I dared to go :)

This is the closest I dared to go :)

After a while, we reached the Todaiji Temple and the gigantic buddha statue inside, the Daibutsuden. Oh my, that was one big statue! Just the head itself was 5.3m and the body 14.98m. The temple around Daibutsuden had been rebuilt many times over the years and the current temple were a bit smaller than the previous ones. However, the hight was still an impressive 48.74m and it was 57m wide! Inside the temple we bought a lucky charm for “a long and happy marriage” :)

The Todaiji Temple

The Todaiji Temple

Daibutsuden! It's a bit hard to tell from the photo how large this statue really is.

Daibutsuden! It’s a bit hard to tell from the photo how large this statue really is.

After Todaiji, we walked up a hill to the Nigatsudo Hall were we popped into a small cafe for some tea and shaved ice. The shaved ice looked good but after eating half of it I was quite fed up. Still feeling hungry, we went looking for a restaurant that lonely planet recommended. Unable to find it, we settled for a shop/restaurant run by a nice elderly couple. The food was nice and after the meal I browsed the store. The old man showed me the incredible knives he had in store and also some nice bonsai scissors/cutting tools. Since we’ve already got a lot of knives at home, I decide to buy a pruning scissor for bonsai and a fabric scissor as well. The old man even inscribed my initials for free!

Shaved ice that tasted lite sugar and green tea.

Shaved ice that tasted lite sugar and green tea.

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Filled with new energy, we continued to Kasuga Taisha Shrine, a place well worth visiting. From the shrine lead a cosy path down through the woods and out from the park.

On our way through the woods. The sun sets quite early here, around 5-6.

On our way through the woods. The sun sets quite early here, around 5-6.

A large bowl of turtle soup! Just kidding, we found a pond full of turtles in the middle of the city.

A large bowl of turtle soup! Just kidding, we found a pond full of turtles in the middle of the city.

That pond was full of surprises. Here's a tree, in a tree, in a pond.

That pond was full of surprises. Here’s a tree, in a tree, in a pond.