Yuki Clothing

plain and simple


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Wedding Dress – Skirt pattern

The time for making the dreaded skirt pattern had finally arrived and I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was. All I needed to do was to take my pattern pieces for the upper body and then simply extend them to form a skirt. Since I’ve already marked out the waist band on the pattern pieces it was really easy to find out how high the skirt should go.

The skirt

I was a bit nervous about the circumference of the skirt turning out too small or too big but with ~3m I reckon the size is just “lagom” (Fyi, this might be the best Swedish word ever. It describes something as being not too much and not too little, just perfect in between).

The wonderful fabric is an old bed sheet donated by my mum (thanks Mum!). In some strange way, it kinda works together with that top… Perhaps with a different waist band it could be useful?

close-up


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Wedding Dress – Round 2 (the final pattern)

The muslin pattern before cutting and unpicking the seams.

The muslin pattern before cutting and unpicking the seams.

The first draft of the pattern was pretty good but I realized that it wasn’t fitted properly over the bust when I made my first mock-up using the pattern pieces from the draft. The necessary adjustments were made and luckily I got my friend to help me pin the dress onto me. At that point, virtually all pattern pieces were different in size but in most cases that’s actually a good thing and I’m not an exception. Like most women, my breasts are not the same size and this becomes apparent when I’m making a really fitted garment.

Speaking of breasts, I bought a new strapless bra (Wonderbra really is awesome :))! Buying it allowed me to start working on the neckline. A word of advise, when possible, try to adapt the dress to the bra. It’s much easier than going on a hunt for the perfect bra that will suit that dress.

When I was happy with the pattern, each part was marked with a number for the smaller parts and a letter for the larger parts. Since the neckline is very asymmetrical, I had to indicate with simple lines where the pieces should be fitted together. To force the fabric to lay flat, I unpicked the seams for the larger pattern pieces (A-H). However, I left the waistband in one piece since I don’t want that split into a million pieces as well. Last but not least, I transferred the pattern from fabric to paper.

All the large pattern pieces for the dress, transferred onto paper.

All the large pattern pieces for the dress, transferred onto paper.


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Transformational Reconstruction (TR Design)

Example of dress made using Transformational Reconstruction

Example of dress made using Transformational Reconstruction

Earlier, I promised you a post about a cool pattern making technique and here it is – Transformational Reconstruction! The designer behind the idea is Shingo Sato. As far as I know, he’s written one book on the subject, holds workshops and to top it off, runs a Youtube channel with “watch-and-learn-guides”.

The basic idea behind TR Design is to manipulate your  garment in 3D and not in 2D. Begin by creating a muslin with fitting of your choice and then fit it onto your mannequin (or other test subject). Next step is to grab a pen and draw your design straight onto the muslin. When your happy with your new design, remove the muslin from the mannequin and cut it open. You will most likely have a flat pattern ready to use by now but it that’s not the case, I recommend having a look at the video TR Cutting School – Easing and Forming. The last step is to cut out the new pattern pieces in a proper fabric and sew everything together.

I’m actually trying this out when making the pattern for my wedding dress. So far, I’m rather happy with this way of working. I had to make quite a few adjustments on my second muslin after noticing that there’s a huge difference in making a dress with one shoulder-strap and two shoulder-straps. Apparently one needs to make a really fitted bodice if one expects it to stay in one place. Today I learn. On the plus side, I just had to remove the straps and make the darned thing smaller and then later on, reattached the straps. Bridezilla transformation: successfully aborted! BOYAH!

Some day (when I’ve finished the dress) I’ll try out an even more elaborate design using transformational reconstruction.

For more information, I recommend checking out the Youtube channel, http://www.youtube.com/user/trpattern